The Harlems of the South

Nearly every city of significant size in the south, claim's their version of Jacksonville's LaVilla is the 'Harlem of the South'? Here is a look at six different 'Harlems of the South' and why LaVilla was much more and should be recognized as such.

4. Jackson Ward

Richmond, Virginia

Located just north of Downtown Richmond, the Jackson Ward was originally developed by European immigrants during. Following the Civil War, during Reconstruction, the Jackson Ward became a major center of African-American life and culture in the country. By the early 20th century, the Jackson Ward was a “Black Wall Street”, with a number of restaurants, clubs, and theaters. Following the 1920s Harlem Renaissance, the neighborhood evolved to be nicknamed the “Harlem of the South” for being a major center of Black entertainment and enterprise from the Great Depression through the early 1950s. In the late 1950s, the Richmond-Petersburg Turnpike (now Interstate 95), was built through the neighborhood, destroying much of it in the process. Despite additional urban renewal projects, the neighborhood was designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1978 with more than 600 significant historic structures. Today, the district boasts more cast iron work than any neighborhood outside of New Orleans.

The Jackson Ward was designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1978.

Broad Street through Richmond’s Jackson Ward neighborhood.

5. North Nashville

Nashville, Tennessee

Anti-segregation demonstrators during the Freedom March on Jefferson Avenue led by John R. Lewis and Archie E. Allen in 1963. Photo courtesy of the Nashville Public Library.

North Nashville is another historic African American neighborhood affectionately known as the “Harlem of the South.” Anchored by three historically Black universities, Fisk University, Meharry Medical College and Tennessee State University, North Nashville has historically been the commercial, entertainment and social hub of the city’s Black community. Lined with businesses, theaters, churches and restaurants, Jefferson Street was Nashville’s version of Jacksonville’s Ashley Street. During the late 1960s, Interstate 40 was built through the middle of the neighborhood, decimating the district with the demolition of 650 homes and displacement of 1,400 residents.

A view inside the Steak House Restaurant at 1821 Jefferson Street in 1958. Photo courtesy of the Nashville Public Library.

The construction of the interstate highway system through North Nashville in 1968. Photo courtesy of the Nashville Public Library.

6. Overtown

Miami, Florida

Overtown was established in 1896 and grew to become known as a “Harlem of the South”. Miami’s first African-American millionaire, Dana Albert Dorsey, was an Overtown resident and shareholder of Jacksonville’s Afro-American Life Insurance Company. Overtown’s Second Avenue corridor of music halls, restaurants, hotels, and entertainment venues came to be known as ‘Little Broadway’ in the 1920s. During the 1950s and 1960s, the neighborhood was decimated by the construction of Interstate 95, Interstate 395 and SR 836. This is a story I know well through my own family history, as my paternal grandmother’s house was razed in the process, leading to the family relocating to another Miami-Dade County neighborhood now known as Model City. Adjacent to Downtown Miami and Wynwood, Overtown is impacted by climate gentrification.

The lobby of the Dunns Josephine Hotel at 1028 NW 3rd Avenue in Overtown.

The Red Rooster Overtown restaurant at 920 NW 2nd Avenue in Overtown.

7. LaVilla (Uptown)

Jacksonville, Florida

Located just west of the Downtown Core, LaVilla is one of Jacksonville’s oldest historically African-American neighborhoods. Named after the LaVilla Plantation, LaVilla was established as a town of its own in 1866 by Francis F. L’Engle. It was Jacksonville’s largest suburb when it was annexed into the city in 1887. Also called Uptown, LaVilla was labeled locally as the “Harlem of the South” because of the vibrant music, food and social scene on thoroughfares like West Ashley Street following the 1920s Harlem Renaissance. Like the other Harlems of the South, much of the neighborhood was also lost to urban renewal projects, including the construction of Interstate 95 and the 1993 River City Renaissance plan. However, like Memphis and New Orleans, two southern cities that promote their own cultural contributions to present day society, there would be no Harlem without LaVilla.

The 1920s Harlem Renaissance is largely a result of the first Great Migration. Roughly, between 1910 and 1930, 1.6 million migrants left mostly southern, oppressive urban communities to migrate to northern, industrial cities in search of a better life and economic opportunity. What most don’t know is that a poem, “Bound for the Promised Land,” written in Jacksonville and published in the Chicago Defender in 1916, was a significant factor in stimulating what has become known as the Great Migration. That poem, written by Eastside resident Matthew Ward, is largely responsible for there being a Harlem in New York, a Black Bottom in Detroit and a Bronzeville in Chicago. The present day United States would not be the same without Jacksonville’s African American community and historic local neighborhoods like LaVilla and the Historic Eastside.

A historic view of LaVilla’s West Ashley Street. Photograph courtesy of the Ritze Theatre & Museum.

As early as 1870, LaVilla was having its own renaissance with a majority Black population attracted to jobs in Jacksonville’s booming hotel, lumber, port, building, and railroad industries. Before 1905, the first Black-owned theater in the South and a Black-owned streetcar company were operating in LaVilla. In addition, The Rabbit’s Foot Company, headquartered in LaVilla, dominated the entertainment scene throughout the Southeast. By 1909, Ashley Street’s Airdome Theatre was recognized as the largest theater exclusively for African Americans in the South.

In 1910, the first published account of blues singing on a public stage took place at the Airdome. Historically a Jewish and Italian community, at the time, the African American community made up roughly ten percent of Harlem’s population. However, with Jacksonville playing a leading role in the south, the tide was about to change for America’s Northern and Midwestern industrial centers. By 1916, recruiters from two northern railroads, the Pennsylvania and the New York Central, were successfully drawing African American workers away from Jacksonville. Due to economic conditions, white militancy, and Jim Crow laws, 6,000 African-Americans left Jacksonville alone between 1916 and 1917 as a part of the first Great Migration.

LaVilla’s Jacksonville Terminal during the Great Migration. The Harlem Renaissance took place a few years after Jacksonville Terminal scenes like this of southerners leaving the south in search of better economic conditions in cities like New York, Philadelphia and Boston. Photograph courtesy of the State Archives of Florida.

By 1930, the end of the first Great Migration, African-Americans accounted for seventy percent of Harlem’s population and the neighborhood had become associated with the New Negro movement. Jacksonville’s loss became Harlem’s gain. The zenith of this “flowering of Negro literature,” as Harlem resident and former Jaxson James Weldon Johnson preferred to call the Harlem Renaissance, took place between 1924 and 1929. However, the cultural activities that made the Harlem Renaissance had been common in places like Jacksonville’s LaVilla in previous decades. What Harlem did is introduce the Black experience already taking place in neighborhoods like LaVilla, to the rest of the society, thus redefining how the world viewed African-Americans.

Broad Street in Jacksonville’s LaVilla neighborhood.

While Harlem may be many things, its more accurate to label the New York neighborhood as a “LaVilla of the North.” However, exposing Jacksonville’s multicultural historical contributions and influence on the development of the country isn’t Harlem’s or New York’s responsibility.

Are we a “Harlem of the South?” If that definition is simply linked to having a vibrant Black cultural district prior to desegregation, it is as well as every similar community in other southern cities that share that same story. Yet LaVilla is much more. At the very least, that’s what history tells us. Maybe it’s time for us to step up and claim Lavilla’s own story and true significance and influence.

Editorial by Ennis Davis, AICP. Contact Ennis at edavis@moderncities.com